| I slipped on a pair of loose-fitting cotton shorts, and | | | | Pedro Claver. Named after Saint Peter Claver, who |
| stepped out of my beach front hotel room for the | | | | was warmly nicknamed "slave to the slaves," this tiny |
| evening. Within a few steps, I was in the middle of a | | | | square houses a cathedral that bears his name. |
| folkloric dance group. | | | | Father Claver showed compassion for the slaves |
| Women in white embroidered dresses were whirling | | | | who arrived. He greeted most of them when they |
| around their male partners, at the same time, | | | | were off loaded, and immediately blessed the dying |
| producing a slight breeze in the humid, seaside air. | | | | children and the sick. He spent many years providing |
| This is typical of Colombia, a country that takes the | | | | medical care for injured and ill slaves, and baptized |
| art of dancing and beauty pageants seriously. | | | | hundreds of thousands during his lifetime. |
| Combine this with the natural, explosive rhythms of | | | | Five minutes walk outside the walled city, and you're |
| Afro-Colombians who heavily populate the coastal | | | | standing in front of Castle San Felipe. It's worth the |
| areas, and you've got one continuous street party. | | | | short climb up the steep hill to reach its doors. You |
| Although their Spanish conquerors have long left, | | | | can explore the castle's massive grounds, touch the |
| Colombians continue to emit a flamenco-like | | | | original cannons, and peer through the portals. You |
| atmosphere. | | | | can also gaze over the walls, and view the panorama |
| Founded in 1533 by Pedro de Heredia, Cartagena | | | | of the city. |
| served as a shipping route and storage space for | | | | About 20 nautical miles off Cartagena are the Rosario |
| emeralds and gold that was later shipped to Spain. | | | | Islands. This archipelago consists of 27 ecologically |
| This picturesque city on the Caribbean coast was | | | | diverse islands which have been chosen as a National |
| once the main entry port of African slaves to the | | | | Park by the Colombian government. If you are |
| Americas; now it's a UNESCO World Heritage Site, | | | | looking for the perfect place to unwind, it's here. |
| and Colombia's favorite tourist destination. | | | | Good snorkeling, diving, windsurfing, kayaking and |
| Cartagena was attacked many times throughout | | | | hiking are available. The outdoor aquarium and dolphin |
| history. The British and French stormed the city in | | | | shows are always a hit with traveling families. |
| search of cached treasures. Pirates also navigated its | | | | Several boats depart early in the morning from the |
| waters in search of other hidden riches. | | | | downtown pier, and glide over the calm waters to |
| One of the most notable assaults came from Sir | | | | the islands in about 45 minutes. The last boats of the |
| Francis Drake, who in 1586, arrived under the cover | | | | day return to Cartagena around four p.m. So, you |
| of darkness with a large group of men. By daylight, | | | | can pack a lunch and make it a day outing, or spend |
| they forced most of the city to flee. Before leaving | | | | a few tranquil nights on the islands. |
| eight months later, they torched homes, businesses, | | | | Throughout most of the barrios in the city, you |
| and extorted local government officials out of | | | | often sense that you're in a smaller village. During the |
| enormous sums of money, and stole valuable jewels. | | | | day, sellers walk the neighborhoods hawking |
| The final major attack took place in 1741, when | | | | everything from ripe papayas and fresh fish, to pots |
| British Commander, Edward Vernon, and George | | | | and pans, and lottery tickets. |
| Washington's half brother, arrived with over 25,000 | | | | Anywhere in the city, you can find makeshift soccer |
| troops and a battle group of 186 ships. Although the | | | | fields where many young boys play, soccer in the |
| Spaniards and African slaves were outnumbered | | | | blazing sun (and sometimes in monsoon rain) kicking |
| seven to one, they withheld the onslaught and | | | | goals like professionals, hoping to be the next Carlos |
| mounted a counterattack which forced Commander | | | | Valderrama, or Ronaldinho. |
| Vernon to withdraw his troops. Unfortunately for him, | | | | After watching the dance performance, I wandered |
| not before he lost nearly half of his men, and most | | | | down some backstreets and stumbled on some |
| of his battleships. | | | | couples nursing cold drinks near an open pit grill. The |
| Today, Cartagena is a city which continues to hold | | | | waft of barbecued chicken filled the muggy night air. |
| much of its old Spanish splendor. Scattered | | | | The menu looked appetizing, as well. |
| throughout the older barrios are balconied colonial | | | | Cartagena cuisine is a variation of genuine Caribbean |
| buildings, painted in a multitude of colors. | | | | and Creole, although you can find a wide range of |
| The old, central part of Cartagena is reinforced by 14 | | | | food and drinks. Outdoor meals usually come with the |
| miles of stone walls, and other fortifications. Many | | | | sounds of Vallenato, Reggaeton, Champeta, or Salsa |
| locals still believe the material used to hold together | | | | music, usually thumping from tall speakers, but |
| these stones, was mixed with the blood of African | | | | occasionally live. |
| slaves. Whether that is true or not, many slaves died | | | | Overall, Colombia is an ideal gateway to South |
| here while helping to fortify the city against pirates. | | | | America for first-time travelers; whether they're |
| The Castle of San Felipe de Barajas was built | | | | backpackers, cruise ship passengers, or even those |
| between 1536 and 1657. The same fortress that | | | | on a family trip. |
| withstood the onslaught of Commander Vernon and | | | | From the grandeur of the walled city, to scenic |
| his troops still towers over Cartagena. One glance | | | | beaches, to informal street parties, Cartagena is a |
| and it's obvious why it couldn't be penetrated. | | | | destination you will always remember. |
| Modern day Cartagena is conquered routinely by a | | | | Where to stay: |
| steady flow of Colombian, and foreign tourists. Most | | | | If you're on a shoestring budget, hotel |
| of their focus is on the old city, where they fan out | | | | accommodation in Cartagena can cost as little as |
| down narrow cobblestone streets in search of | | | | $5-10 a night in the Getsemaní area. |
| historic landmarks. | | | | However, for that price, expect a simple bed, fan, |
| As you enter Plaza de los Coches (Coach Square), | | | | with a shared bathroom and shower. Add another |
| directly beneath the city's famous clock, you face a | | | | $15 and you can find comfortable rooms in this |
| huge statue of Pedro de Heredia, who founded the | | | | historic section of town, which happens to be the |
| city in 1533. Just to the left of the statue, pastel | | | | oldest neighborhood in Cartagena. |
| colored colonial buildings fill the Plaza's landscape. | | | | The Bocagrande area has the most hotels in |
| In the daytime, women line the sidewalk with their | | | | Cartagena. Here, you'll find many hotels on the beach. |
| candy stands, selling traditional sweets. People relax | | | | From small family hotels to 5-Star, there is a price |
| on the benches and enjoy traditional music and | | | | range for everyone. |
| dancing, street comedy performances and even an | | | | If you want to be pampered, try the Charleston |
| occasional sermon from a curbside preacher. | | | | Hotel. Not only does it offer 5-Star services, it's |
| At dusk, horse-drawn carriages line up here, ready to | | | | cleverly hidden between the city's ancient walls, and |
| take tourists on a lantern lit tour through the heart of | | | | it sits near many tourist attractions in the old city. |
| downtown. It's possible to close your eyes and go | | | | The Charleston includes a breathtaking rooftop pool |
| back in time as the horse's hooves resonate off the | | | | and restaurant area. Here, you get a bird's-eye view |
| tight cobbled streets. | | | | of the Caribbean, Cartagena Bay and the magnificent |
| At the end of the plaza (about 100 feet), is an open | | | | old city. |
| square with a Christopher Columbus monument. This | | | | Getting there: |
| is Plaza de la Aduana (Customs Plaza), and represents | | | | Copa Airlines has direct flights from Miami and |
| a dark side of Cartagena's past. | | | | Panama City, Panama. |
| In 1564, Cartagena became the gateway to the | | | | AirMadrid has direct flights from Madrid and Barcelona, |
| Americas for many African slaves. Those who | | | | Spain. |
| survived the treacherous passage got off the ships, | | | | Visa: |
| and were then lined up in Customs Plaza, paraded | | | | American tourists traveling to Colombia need to have |
| around, and auctioned like livestock to the highest | | | | a valid U.S. passport, but not a visa. This allows you |
| bidders. | | | | to stay up to 90 days. This can be extended for |
| Directly behind Plaza de la Aduana, is the Plaza San | | | | another 90 days at the Immigration office (DAS). |